Leaving my daughter and wife sleeping in bed I arrived in Arbil, one of the oldest cities in the world, at 04.00 in the morning and it was really hot outside. I took the flight from Istanbul with TK as usual and the plane was completely booked. I sat next to an American in business class and the guy was sitting in my seat, which I didn't mind at all, but he was stinking with alcohol so much it got disturbing. When he opened his eyes the guy looked at me surprisingly wondering what I was doing next to him..I told him 'man you are so wasted'..his comment was..'I would like to say I'm not but I guess I am' and the he doze off instantly again..it was a 2 1/2 hour flight listening to this jerk's snoring but the worst part was the smell. I took a taxi to the Van Royal Hotel, which claims to be a 5 star hotel but we both knew that it was not, and paid the driver 20 USD. When I entered the lobby at 05.00 there was not a soul at the reception. The whole lobby was empty and despite my 'hello' nobody cared to answer. But then I heard a snoring coming from the corner where there was a couch. I saw that the receptionist was having a nap back there..I went straight over to the guy and kicked him awake from his sweet Kurdish dream. 'You have a guest and I want my room. Now get up!' ..He stood up instantly and went to the receptionist's desk and 10 minutes later I was in my room. First I check the bathroom. It looks clean. Then I check the minibar. It is full with liquor. And finally check the bed. Looks clean but has a hard mattress. No problem. I can live with that. Arbil is one of the safest cities in Iraq but that doesn't mean you should be careless when walking around. Every now and then you encounter with guards or soldiers wearing Kalashnikovs which gives you a queasy feeling because you're not used to it where you come from. People seem friendly and forthcoming. I will be staying for a week here so I will continue with Erbil with my next post.